Showing posts with label noro. Show all posts
Showing posts with label noro. Show all posts

Friday, March 2, 2012

Noro Striped Scarf of AWESOMENESS!


***Link To Ravelry Project Page***

Yarn- 2 balls of Noro Kureyon Sock or Noro Silk Garden Sock in 2 different colorways
--- You can sub in an alternate yarn in the same weight or use what you want but adjust the needle size to work with your yarn weight.

Needles- US4 circular with a long cord so the stitches are not all jammed together

Notions- Stitch markers, yarn needle

Skills Needed- Cast on, Picking up stitches, Make1L increase (m1L), Make1Right increase (m1R), Yarn over, Cast off

--This pattern is knit in stocking knit stitch, so knitting and purling alternate rows


Pattern-
-- Start by making a garter tab--
- Cast on 3 stitches in colorway number one.
- Knit 5 rows in garter stitch.
- Knit those 3 stitches, then pick up 3 stitches from the side of the knitting and then 3 stitches from the cast on edge (9 stitches on needle)
-Wrong side of scarf/set up row- K2, P2, pm (place marker), P1, pm, P2, K2
- Right side of scarf- *K2, m1L, K2, m1R, sm (slip marker), slip stitch, sm, m1L, K2, M1R, K2
- K2, P4, sm, P1, sm, P4, K2*
-Repeat from * to * for as many rows as you would like of the first colorway. You can do a few or a bunch, it is totally up to you!
---When you want to bring in the new colorway start on a right side row leaving the first colorway yarn dangling start knitting with the new one, following the pattern from * to * the same as before. Knit those 2 rows in pattern then drop that yarn and pick back up the first colorway. PLEASE make sure to carry the yarn up the side LOOSELY so that edge does not pull in!!!
----A trick that I used to keep it loose was, in between those first 2 KNIT stitches of every row do a yarn over. When you get to that spot on the next row DO NOT KNIT THE YARN OVER just drop it. The extra yarn will just make those edge stitches looser. It works like a dream. I do it on both sides just so it is easier for me to keep in that pattern.

---The stitch in between the markers gets slipped every right side row and purled on the wrong side rows. This gives a wicked column running up the center of your scarf.
----The purl bumps are made by knitting a row on the "wrong side" instead of purling it. I did mine randomly when I felt like it or if I really loved the color that I was knitting. Have some fun with it! Show that yarn off!

- Keep knitting in pattern switching yarns every 2 rows until your scarf is big enough for your liking. Try it on (on scrap yarn if your circular needles are not big enough) and see if you like how long the "neck edge" is, if it wraps enough around. If yes then start on border, if not then keep knitting!

--Border--
I prefer the look of a solid garter stitch border. It gives a nice solid edge to the scarf and best of all, when knit long enough it keeps the edge from curling. Feel free to substitute in any sort of edging you like. Make it your own!
- Using only 1 colorway now (you can cut the other yarn off leaving a nice tail to weave in) keeping with the increase pattern in between the * to * knit BOTH rows until your border is as wide as you want it. Mine are about 2- 3 inches wide. I also like to continue to do the center slipped stitch through out the border.
-CAST OFF LOOSELY!
- Weave in ends and you are done!

Long Noro Armwarmers with Lace Detail

I still have yet to revise this pattern but I thought I could at least leave the link to the original "pattern" that is on Craftster.

***Long Noro Armwarmers***
***Ravelry Link To Pattern Page***

Thursday, March 1, 2012

Noro Ribbed Toque


***Link To Ravelry Project Page***

Materials
- 4.5mm/7us circular needle and/or a set of 4.5mm/7us DPNs
- 1 Ball of Noro Kureyon or Silk Garden (50gr/100metres) or another worsted weight yarn.
--->NOTE- This pattern cuts it real close with the one ball, but it can be done.
- Stitch markers

Directions
- Cast on 84 stitches onto the circular needle or the dpns. Be careful not to twist the stitches when joining in the round. Place a stitch marker at beginning of round if using circulars.
-K2P2 in the round until it measures 5.75 inches from bottom cast on edge to needle.
-Next round continue with the ribbing pattern but transferring the stitches to the dpns (if not using them already) putting a stitch marker after every 14 stitches.
-*Next round continue with the ribbed pattern and when you reach 2 stitches before each marker/end of needle K2tog.
-The next round is knit plain, no decreases*
-Repeat from * to * 3 times more.
-Starting on the next round decrease before every stitch marker every round until there are 2 stitches left on each needle.
-Take yarn needle and pull end through 6 remaining stitches and pull tight and the weave in your ends.

This hat will look small when it's done but since it is done in ribbing it stretches to form fit almost anyone's head. If it has to be bigger or smaller just increase or decrease the amount of stitches first cast on. Making sure that it is still divisible by 4 (for the ribbing) and make sure there can still be equal placement of the stitch markers. And you can also lengthen or shorten the "body" of the hat to accommodate larger or smaller heads.

--> I did some revisions (and spell checking!) on the old pattern. Please let me know if you have any questions or concerns.