Monday, January 7, 2019

Mountain Pattern

MOUNTAINS

Yarn- worsted weight 
Needles- 4US and 7US circulars or dpns
Gauge- 4.5 stitches per inch
Size- Average 
       FIRST NOTE-- Here is where depending on yarn weight/head size you can adjust stitches to make it work. Just increase or decrease stitches in sets of 4 (for ribbing) if you want to get extra fancy add or subtract stitches by sets of 4 and 6 (for decreases later on)

Pattern/Recipe
On smaller needles cast on 96 stitches
Join in round making sure not to twist stitches
k1 *p2, k2* repeating these 4 stitches until 1 stitch left k1
Continue in pattern for 1.5 inches
Switch to larger needles
For the most basic of mountain hats I divided my 96 stitches by 4 giving me 24 stitches per peak. Here is when you decide what size of peaks you want. The decreases are formed out of the knit columns
Decrease round-*SSK, follow in rib pattern for 20 stitches, k2tog* repeat 3 times
Increase round- *m1R, k1, follow in rib pattern for 20 stitches, k1, m1L* repeat 3 times
Ok so that's the whole idea of the pattern. One round of decreases and the next follow with increases
If you have chosen to do different sizes of peaks just read your knitting as you go basically just turning the rest of the hat stockinette that is not in the ribbed mountain peaks. Look at all the pictures and it should all make sense

                                     
Increase round- *k1, SSK, follow in rib pattern until 1 stitch before your last mountain edge, k2tog, k1* repeat 3 times
Decrease round- *k1, m1R, follow in rib pattern knitting the the last stitch of the mountain ridge, m1L* repeat 3 times
Are you getting the idea of it? Each round the ridge line shifts over until the connect and then it is all stockinette from there!
Basically you just continue around and around and when you have 2 stitches left of the peaks you k2tog of each. For the increase round you kfb of each mountain peak bringing you back to 96 stitches.
This will for 4 ribbed mountain peaks
To get the smaller peaks like in the photo below you chose when you want your ridge to start and when you are on a decrease round you just start another mountain by ssk and k2tog on either side of the peaks. Look at photos and they should make it more clear
Just remember on you increase rounds to increase on either side of those new ridges.



The next few photos show a couple different variations I have done





So after your peaks are all done you are just knitting round and round until the hat is as fitted or slouchy as you like it. I knit mine for 7 inches from bottom of ribbing
I usually always use a number of stitches divisible by 6 for my decreases. I find it just looks best. But you do you. Especially if you have adjusted your stitch count
My decrease formula is basically 
- k14, k2tog* repeated 5 more times
- plain knit round
- *k13, k2tog* repeat til marker
- plain round
Continue doing your decrease round and one knit round until there is 7 stitches between decreases. This is usually where i start decreasing every round until 6 stitches left
Making sure to switch to dpns or longer cord for magic loop
Cut yarn and weave through 6 stitches and tie it off

OK folks I know this is a little vague but I promise it all makes sense once you start going
Please contact me on instagram  I am garrry___ or garrry on ravelry for help!!


No comments:

Post a Comment